Cycling with Snakes in Toronto

In my quest to test the city cycle trails of the world, I saddled up on a cute little three-gear, courtesy of Cambridge Suites hotel, and hit the road in Toronto. I’m told that cycling Canada’s largest city is a controversial activity. The mayor doesn’t keep it quiet that he is no fan of us free wheelers. But while he and other motorists may feel as much love for us as a speed hump, less cars on the road, means gas guzzlers do get around faster. Swings and roundabouts. And talking of swingers, shoppers of Bloor Street, please note, those things on your car doors are not vanity mirrors, glance in ‘em before swinging open. Never have I had so many near somersaults.

Drivers are not the only hazard to cyclists in this metropolis. Snakes and tram lines also need to be given a wide berth. I did a fabulous BMX-style stunt to stay upright when my front wheel got into an altercation with the latter.

The former I was warned of on a leafy peninsula detour from the main waterfront trail, into Tommy Thompson Park.

Toronto’s lakefront is a cyclist’s nirvana. Largely off-road paths weave through desirable neighbourhoods, past marinas, volleyball pitches, skateboard parks and urban green spaces, such as the Music Garden, all with the city skyline as your backdrop.

I started my tour at Yonge Street, cycling from west to east on Queen Street. It becomes trendier as you near The Beaches, a des res delight. How can you not love a community where queues form outside the independent coffee shops, while there are seats free at their major chain rivals?

Turning right at Woodbine Avenue I reached Lake Ontario’s shoreline got into cruise mode and savoured the changing terrain. About an hour later I reached the junction with Yonge. Heading north under the shadow of skyscrapers I stopped in at the Hockey Hall of Fame. From there I cycled through up-scale Yorkville with its designer stores, to the faux-medieval folly of Casa Loma, all formal gardens and fountains. Freewheeling back downhill I popped into the Bata Shoe Museum to learn about the male versions of Imelda Marcos and their vast sneaker collections, finishing up at the Royal Ontario Museum for a history tour.

All in a day’s work, and highlighting once again, that you can get more done and have more fun city sighting as a cyclist.

Big up Biking in Boston

I reported back on my fabulous cycling experiences in NYC – burning up those yellow taxis – and DC - getting the National Mall almost to myself - so it would be remiss not to mention my cycle ride in Boston. This petite city has plenty of roads hugging its historic centre, and Mass, drivers aren’t known for their courtesy. I can report that they haven’t a lot of time or space for cyclists, but there is a great off-road loop along the banks of the Charles River. Little hairy getting to it from the waterfront, where I picked up my bike rental from Urban Adventours, but once you’re on the river trail just beyond the Museum of Science there’s a great view of the city skyline all the way up to Harvard. I took a stroll around Harvard Square with its historic university buildings, milling students and cheap eats, then got back in the saddle and shot down the other bank. Boathouses, playgrounds and the lagoons of Charles River Esplanade are among the points of interest. This way you see Boston at play. Yummy mummies jogging their kids along in aerodynamic strollers, folk walking their pampered pooches, lovers canoodling and old guys chewing the fat on park benches. Nothing gives you such a range of perspectives and insights like a city bike ride.

Mamma Mia!

Bostonians are known for their love of a good debate and a little controversy. The Tea Party they threw for us Brits in December 1773 is a fine example. On a walking tour yesterday my guide told me that the city is currently divided on another matter - who serves the best cannoli in town. The two main contenders are Mike’s Pastry and Modern Pastry both in Hanover Street, ‘Little Italy’. I saw tourists opting for one or the other depending on which guidebook they had in their hand. Being a conscientious journalist I bought one of these Sicilian pastries from each store, then devoured the pair. Which was my winner? Hands down Modern’s. Crunchy pastry crisp right to the centre, dusted with sugar and filled with a super-creamy filling that wasn’t too sweet. Another fact-finding mission completed for the common good.

The Hills are Alive…

Going to the Prince Charles cinema off London’s Leicester Square dressed as a nun for the Sound of Music movie sing-along, is way up there for me as a good use of your time. Imagine, then, getting to spend a night at the Trapp Family Lodge in Stowe, Vermont, established by Maria and the Captain! It’s all very Austrian alpine. Chalet style with floral window boxes and hanging baskets. If you’re lucky you’ll get to chat to Sam. He’s actually a grandson of the Maria, played so beautifully by Julie Andrews. Sam says he never ceases to be overwhelmed by the impact his grandmother’s book, and subsequent movie, have had on millions of people across the globe - an increasing number of which find their way here to tell him personally. So was she a flibbertigibbet, a willow the wisp and a clown? ( Well, admit it, you would have been disappointed if I hadn’t asked). All of the above, apparently, with plucky, sharp and non-nonsense thrown in. The lodge is a winter sports base and in warmer months you can hike and mountain bike on a series of superb marked trails. Sam sent me out on my first ever single track trail. It was like riding a roller coaster on two wheels, total adrenalin kick. trappfamily.com

What’s not to like about New Hampshire. Driving the Kancamagus Scenic Byway is billed as one of the best drives in the world and there are no grounds for argument with that. Mountain views at every switchback, rise and fall of the tarmac. ‘Live Free or Die’ is the state moto. No sales tax, income tax or common sense laws. They trust you to make your own mind up about when it’s safe to use your cell phone while in your car, for example. As refreshing as the clean mountain air, coming from the UK’s Nanny State. Head to the Littleton Diner for gourmet corned beef hash. It takes the chefs two days to prepare this rustic dish, which goes very well with the house baked beans cooked down with maple syrup. Chutters of Littleton boasts the longest candy counter in the world showcasing 550 different jars of sweets.